Each issue profiles the people, vehicles, issues and events that make ours such a rich and dynamic hobby.
Condition #1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best car, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the car has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 cars is "concours."
#2 cars could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 cars that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome, glass and interior will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine compartment. The vehicle will drive as a new car of its era would. The one word description for #2 cars is "excellent."
#3 cars could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 car, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior. #3 cars drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These cars are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 car.
#4 cars are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the fender has a minor dent. The interior could have split seams or a cracked dash. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or the interior might not be stock. A #4 car can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 car.
Hagerty April 26, 2011
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I’m not a big fan of products that purport to do multiple things. Few of the combination printer, copier, fax and scanners that I’ve owned have been as good as the dedicated machine for each task. So it is in car care too, where all-in-one cleaner waxes go up against multiple product systems that involve a separate polish and final wax. I generally find cleaner waxes to be less effective than a separate polish followed by a non-cleaner wax topcoat that acts as protection only.
One of the most popular non-cleaner waxes is Meguiar’s Hi-Tech Yellow Wax, which provides good gloss enhancement and does a nice job of filling minor surface imperfections. For non-oxidized surfaces that don’t have significant paint problems, it’s a good bet for easy-to-apply protection. Yellow Wax is hands down one of the easiest products to apply and remove that I’ve ever used. Unlike cleaner waxes that leave a white polish residue behind, you don’t have to be careful about removal from crevices and avoiding rubber; Yellow Wax leaves almost nothing behind after you remove it.
And while we never recommend sniffing solvents of any kind, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that the stuff smells really pleasant — kind of like banana Laffy Taffy. The user friendliness is a good thing because you will apply it more often than some of Meguiar’s other products that seem to bead water a little longer.
Ricky Hats off to wohveer wrote this up and posted it.
Hats off to wohveer wrote this up and posted it.
Steve Calif.
I heard from a trusted auto paint professional to NEVER use liquid waxes on car paint. The reasoning he gave was that liquid waxes are silicone-based, which means that over time a buildup of wax can occur and it can cause paint smear, paint/materials/metal deterioration.